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East coast: Chaweng and Lamai
Chaweng is the longest and most developed beach on the island, with hotels of every price, restaurants, bars and clubs behind it. The southern end, Chaweng Noi, is separated by rocks and slightly calmer. Lamai, further south, is the second resort area: a long beach, a lively centre and quieter stretches towards both ends. The Hin Ta and Hin Yai rocks are at its southern tip.
Both face east, into the north-east monsoon. From about October to December the surf can be heavy here; watch for red flags.
North coast: Choeng Mon to Mae Nam
- Choeng Mon: a small bay in the north-east corner, ten minutes from Chaweng, popular with families.
- Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak): named after the statue on the islet at its end, with restaurants along the road and boats to Koh Phangan.
- Bophut: the old Fisherman's Village, a street of wooden shophouses turned restaurants, with a night market. The water can be murky, especially around December.
- Mae Nam: long, quiet and shallow, good for children; the catamarans to Koh Phangan and Koh Tao leave from the pier here.
West and south
The west coast faces the mainland and the Ang Thong islands. Lipa Noi, south of Nathon, is wide and shallow, with sunsets over the sea; at low tide the water retreats a long way. Further south, small beaches such as Taling Ngam, Thong Krut and Bang Kao have few hotels and some fishing boats. Between Chaweng and Lamai, Silver Beach (Crystal Bay) is a small cove between boulders.
Tides
The Gulf of Thailand has a large tidal range in places. On the north and west coasts low tide can uncover wide sand and mud flats, and swimming means a long walk out. Tide tables are worth a look before you choose a hotel for swimming.
Beach etiquette
- Topless sunbathing is frowned on in Thailand.
- Jet skis are rented on the busier beaches; check the machine for damage with the owner before you ride.
- From July to December, read the jellyfish advice on staying safe.